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Flying Solo: Savoring Savannah, GA
]]>A Travelogue with Rick Rose Like neighboring Charleston, the city of Savannah, Georgia is historic as all get out. What is way cool about the city is that it was laid out in 1733 around four open squares. The city plan anticipated growth and expansion of the grid. Additional squares were added during the 18th and 19th centuries, and by 1851 there were twenty-four squares in the city. Many of us know the city because of the recent fame brought to it by John Berendt’s best selling novel, “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” and subsequent Clint Eastwood movie. When you take a “Walk through Midnight” tour, you see the squares and learn the story of Savannah in a very amazing way. The true star here is the wonderful city itself. Guides offer personal insights and observations, as well as new stories that would create an incredible sequel or two. Many of the friendly guides were even extras in the movie and have added memorabilia to show you along the way. A two mile tour is spread out over just under two hours. Check out the tours here.
Savannah has been rated by Walking Magazine as “one of the 10 Best Walking Cities in America.” The pristine squares and bordering tree-lined streets, incredible parks, and laid-back pace make Savannah an ideal location for leisurely and intimate vacationing where the heat of the South rarely gets to you. You can always hop in and out of air conditioning as you need to by touring the city’s many historic homes. My favorite and that of many other young girls (ha!) is the birthplace of the founder of the Girl Scouts of America, which has been a virtual mecca to nearly 3 million visitors since it began a restoration to splendor in the 1950s.
Half way through the day, Susan and I grew hungry. As you can imagine, a Southern City has plenty to offer the weary walker. We chose www.mrswilkes.com for some rib-sticking Southern cooking. A line gathers each morning at 107 West Jones Street, the address of what was once and in some ways still is the boarding home of Mrs.Wilkes. Today the Wilkes’ kids swing the door open wide and friendly at 11 o’clock as they welcome a lunch crowd that scurries to find seats at one of the large tables-for-ten shared by strangers who over a meal become family, of sorts. Tabletops are crowded with platters of fried chicken and cornbread dressing, sweet potato souffle, biscuits, black-eyed peas, okra gumbo to name just a few of the dishes.
You may want to enjoy a meal from the lineage of the Lady and her sons at http://www.ladyandsons.com. That’s right, Paula Dean calls Savannah home as do her sons. Every day of the week, the host at their establishment begins to take names at 9:30am for lunch and dinner on a first come first served basis from her famous podium on Congress Street in front of the restaurant. You must appear in person to receive a priority seating time. Sunday, the Dean clan offers up a scrumptious buffet from 11am until 5 pm. The wait at Wilkes is typically less, and it is more joyful for me to dine there, but Susan and I did check out the accompanying kitchen goods store to the Dean restaurant. Cool stuff can be purchased on the recommendation of Paula who clearly knows the need of those of us who love to cook. To complement your walking exploration, take a Carriage Ride; the horses in Savannah are some of the prettiest I have seen. When darkness covers the city, check out one of the many famous Irish pubs spread throughout the squares for a quick pint of Guiness or my favorite, a Black Smith (like a Black and Tan but with Smithwicks Irish beer). You willl need it to calm your nerves before you board the trolley of one of the city’s famous ghost tours (www.savannahtours.us). We screamed our way through basements of old homes that were left intact the day they were abandoned and many city cemeteries. I assure you that you will too. Take lots of pictures, as we did, because looking for the “orbs” in them afterwards is part of the fun. Savannah is filled with spirits. Speaking of spirits, there is a great LGBT scene in and around the beautiful riverwalk where drinking happens all day long! If you get energized you can join in for some spirited gay volleyball which is played every Sunday in Daffin Park from 2 to 6 in the afternoon. www.gaysavannah.com is undoubtedly one of the best directories and magazines I have seen in any city. It will guide you to places of interest that range from antiquing to green living. An added bonus for me on this trip was meeting Ronni Carpenter, whose grandparents owned a general store out in the countryside of Savannah. There they sold shoes made in Hannibal, MO during the days that followed WWI when Hannibal was the largest shoe manufacturer in the nation. It’s a fascinating piece of American history, and Ronni was kind enough to invite me and Susan and a couple friends who once lived in Hannibal over to see the shoes that survived over these many years. Savannah has survived and is currently thriving! Go check it, and let me know what you think! Travel deliciously, Rick
Flying Solo: Charleston, SC
A Travelogue with Rick Rose
It’s called Charles Towne (original name from 1670), the Holy City (because of all the churches there) and Antebellum Heaven (with all its painted lady architecture), and it’s known as a visitor’s mecca for those who love southern heat and hospitality. Charleston, SC is where I enjoyed an amazing July 4th with two dear friends from one of my former lives. I met Cindy and Randy when they opened a coffee house near Hannibal, MO some years ago, moving to that area from Alaska.
On a cold winter morning at 6am, something both they and I are familiar with (being Wisconsin-bred), I met the duo as one of their first customers. I was en route to Studio H at WGEM where I co-hosted a two-hour morning show. They became quick friends and remain so after they eventually moved on to Charleston about the time I headed to a new home in Shreveport. They bring out the best in me: smiles, laughs, hopes, dreams, risk-taking and adventure. Having celebrated our independence on the day of our country’s, I encourage you to check out the things I discovered in this port city, anytime of year. Here are my top 10 sites to visit which were hand selected from the 25 Cindy and Randy shared with me!
Charleston City Market – Open 365 days a year, it is full of great things to see and to buy. Visitors and locals mingle around Market Hall which stands facing Meeting Street as the main entrance to four blocks of open-air buildings where you will meet vendors selling paintings, pottery, spices, jewelry and Charleston’s famous sweetgrass baskets. Surrounding the Market are avenues of casual and fine dining restaurants and taverns!
U. S. Customs House – A great representation of the history and architecture of this great city, you will want to take a lot of pictures of this building and its detail. It stands as a landmark in the beautiful Charleston Historic District. Its construction, which began in 1853, was halted six years later because of the costs and possibility of the state’s secession from the Union. After the War of the Statess, building restarted in 1870 for nine years until its completion. It has been on the National Register of Historical Places since 1974. You can casually stroll the streets of downtown where the Customs House lives or take an informational horse and carriage historic tour.
Bike Rentals at Vendue Inn – Another great way to get around the city, rent a bike. We did right at Venue Inn, one of the city’s many historic inns…and we rode all the way to the Battery at the tip of Charleston, another picture-perfect setting! In Charleston Harbor, you will be fascinated by everything from simple sailboats to huge barges, all part of the rich maritime history here. I strongly suggest at least a one-night stay at the Vendue. It’s southern hospitality at its best.
Waterfront Park – A wonderful place to stroll and sip coffee as we did. Tried as we might, we were not able to find a coffee that beat the kind Randy and Cindy served back home. I mean have you ever heard of air-roasted Alaskan coffee? I hadn’t until I met this dynamic duo.
Calhoun Mansion – One of hundreds of incredible historic residences, this Mansion is located at 16 Meeting Street. It is one of dozens that can be toured. After viewing its internal splendor and incredible grounds, we enjoyed walking up and down Meeting Street and the streets that ran parallel and perpendicular to it. Wherever you go, you will be amazed by the wonderful styles and colors represented in these buildings. You may even get the bug to buy one as many are for sale!
Philadelphia Alley and Queen Street – These are two of my favorite places by far in this quaint city steeped in spirits and history. There are many guided walks available, but we enjoyed doing it alone. Cindy is spiritually connected for sure, so I enjoyed just playing with her as we listened to what our “unseen friends” told us about their former haunts. You can check out a tour or better yet, just befriend a local, and they will happily share their stories.
Fort Moultrie – This early fort on Sullivan’s Island was still incomplete when Commodore Sir Peter Parker and nine warships attacked it on June 28, 1776, days before our Independence. After a nine-hour battle, the ships were forced to retire. Charleston was saved from British occupation, and the fort was named in honor of its commander, Colonel. William Moultrie. Today Fort Moultrie has been restored to portray the major periods of its history. For us, it provided the perfect backdrop to start our Independence Day Celebration!
Sullivan’s Island and Beach –Just north of Charleston, you will discover one of the best beaches out there, anywhere. We spent much of our Fourth of July morning, spread out on colorful towels, smiling at passerbys, and dipping our toes in the sea several times to cool down. When you visit, be sure to see the Sullivan’s Island Lighthouse!
Downtown Historic Summerville – I asked to celebrate midday Independence day in a place the symbolized Americana, and my friends delivered. We drove a bit outside of Charleston proper to the inclusive community known as Summerville. Progressive, yet steeped in its past, you too will love the spiritedness of this town. Their smoking ban started just a week after the fourth, so you can visit restaurants and bars in comfort, something still not real revered in southern cities.
http://www.summerville.sc.us/
Charleston Harbor – Evening fireworks were enjoyed by thralls including the three of us as they went off over expansive Charleston Harbor. We saw the display set against a silhouette of a burned out bridge that formerly connected Mt. Pleasant to Sullivan’s Island in the 1800’s. It was the perfect finish to a perfect trip. Whether you make it for a future Fourth of July celebration or not, when you do come, check out Charleston Harbor Tours which is the oldest continually operating harbor sightseeing tour company in Charleston, tracing back to 1908. Hop aboard the Carolina Belle and cruise by the Civil War’s historic Fort Sumter, Patriot’s Point, the Battery, and Saint Michael’s Episcopal Church Steeple. You’ll also cruise under the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge. http://charlestonharbortours.com/
Oh, I’d be remiss if I didn’t let you know that Charleston has an active evening LGBT scene and a friendly, welcoming community, en par with the overall community in this southern gem. Take in a drag show at Club Pantheon which has amazing dirty martinis!
Next stop: Savannah, GA where I met up with my longtime friend, Susan, with whom I worked off-Broadway. Sue still lives in the metro NYC area where she has advanced to being a super-talented Broadway scenic artist. Her passion however lies in restoring her historic home in Savannah where we spent a few days catching up and traveling across her great second city. Check out the next Travelicious!
Travel deliciously,
Rick]]>
Rick's Travelicious: Orlando, FL – more misses than hits
Mickey Town
More Misses than Hits in Orlando
June 27, 2011
Orlando is one of those cities for me like St. Louis where I visit several times in a year. Therefore, this past weekend, I decided to try something different and explore parts and places in Mickey and Minnie Town which I have never experienced before. Bad idea.
I tend to see the positive in everything, yet this Thursday thru Sunday weekend had far more misses than hits for me. I write as a matter of prevention for your next visit to Central Florida not because I’m a pissy blogger.
My college friend Susie and I checked into Loew’s Portofino Hotel at 10pm on the Universal grounds after I arrived late on Thursday to Sanford Airport via Allegiant Air. From the vast well-appointed bathroom in our room, it is easy to see why this Italian-inspired getaway earns a Four Diamond AAA rating. It was the first bathroom I have had in all my travels with a his and his (or hers and hers) sink…very nice…as was the individual pod coffee maker with lots of choices and the view of the bay from the room. The grounds of the hotel wreak of Italy…albeit a bit theme park like, including the permanently mounted Vespas and gondolas which were more art than practical. This I didn’t like.
What I liked far less was that for a tourism destination, there wasn’t a restaurant at the hotel or adjoining Universal CityWalk that served food after 10pm!!! Room service was adequate for humans, seemingly better suited for canines and felines who are welcomed at Loew properties as the menu had dry and wet foods in different brands and flavors available by the ounce! So if you travel with your pet, check in and check it out! I did enjoy a bit of time at CityWalk on the next morning, however, when I met my dear friend Fani who worked for me when I owned B&B’s and bistros in Hannibal, MO. Fani is from Bulgari and now lives in Orlando with her husband…so great to see her and meet her new baby boy, Anthony!
Trying to make up for the lack of a great tasting meal, Susie and I met our friend Charlie on Friday night and went bananas over the lack of good service at Bananas Diner in the “gay area” of Orlando on North Mills Avenue. Our waiter, Shawn, was as equally gorgeous as all the waitstaff, but there was little to personality to back the beauty (and I am surprise, why?). Two of our three entrée choices were brought out wrong and all of the side dishes were not what we ordered. Our Malbec was served in champagne flutes because, according to Shawn, “our other restaurant next store steals all our glassware because they have a better wine list.” One thing Shawn did well, though, was split our check…down to the penny, splitting the wine and shared appetizer in equal parts. Dare I say, in love, my lesbian friends would be very most happy here! There is a great drag show here each week, too, which most of my lesbian friends, I know, would not really enjoy.
Still on a quest for a fine dining experience, the three of us took on the other gay-owned restaurant next store, Funky Monkey, looking for better wines and stemware. Anoop, the manager, host, waiter, sometimes chef, chronic talker and obvious control freak, selected a bottle of Shiraz for us called TIK TOK. Any wine that pays tribute to my girl Ke$ha is fine by me…and it was. The dinner however was NOT! A three hour experience included us having to move tables mid meal because Anoop needed ours to adjoin to another for a party of 20 which never showed up. For our move, desserts were to be “on the house,” which only happened after Anoop recalculated the check three times! Where was Shawn from next store when you needed him?
So there is something to be said to being loyal to your favorite places when you return somewhere on vacation! My picks in Orlando are on the quaint shoppers mecca known as South Park Avenue in the Winter Park area by Rollins College where my dear friend Leanza Cornett, Miss America 1993 and AIDS activist attended: Bosphorus for the “to die for” lavas (hollow) bread, baked per table, served steamy with wonderful sesame seed crust and Eola Wine Company for its weekend brunches that features a flight of bagels and champagne…after trying five kinds of mimosas, you pick your favorite and it IS on the house (that is providing Anoop doesn’t come work there). Nearby you must visit the Louis Comfort Tiffany Collection at Morse Museum and the Orlando Museum of Art with a great outdoor collection of sculpture!
Night life is something I love in Orlando although I still mourn the loss of the wonderful wonderland known as Pleasure Island in Downtown Disney (ever get dizzy on the revolving dance floor at Revolver there?). Going with the plan to try something new, on Friday we checked out Sak Comedy Lab for improv in the active Central Business District downtown…it was a delight! I highly recommend you go: great space, fun performers who can also sing, no two drink minimum required…really nice! We followed the laughs by hitting the bar at Savoy on N. Mills. With nightly drink specials and underwear only clad dancers and bartenders, the place is always easy on the eye and on the pocket book. We met several of the Saks performers there. I was bummed I had to head home on Sunday afternoon, breaking our tradition of going there on Sunday evenings for the $1 Long Island Ice Teas, all night long. Those of you who have been to Orlando would also agree with me, I am sure, that Parliament House or dancing is a must….you can even dance around the pool where drag shows and concerts are held. This coverted motor lodge has the perfect mix of kitsch and class. Of note for those that love this landmark club, despite recent forclsure proceedings, its owners are moving ahead with a million dollar renovation and are launching a three-story, lakefront time share.
Check out Allegiant Air in a city near you for a cheap fare to Orlando. Sanford Airport is small and easy to manage and not that far away really. If you are going to Daytona, it is actually the more convenient airport to fly. I’m booking my next trip now for mid-July. You know it will include no new restaurants and for sure, a Sunday overnight.]]>
'Sounds of Asteroth' free digital download available!
I posted a video the other day of Travelicious Rick’s favorite band, ‘Sounds of Asteroth.’ Their 11-song album, ‘The Inventors,’ is available as a free digital download. You can see an ad in the sidebar here and at MadeMark.net. Listen up!]]>
Travelicious Rick’s new favorite band: Sounds of Asteroth
This is lgbtSr contributor/travel writer Rick’s new favorite band. A little bit Patti Smith, a little bit Husker Du (some age appropriate references there). And it makes you wanna dance!]]>
Rick's Travelicious: A day in Quincy, IL
Quincy, Illinois…one short flight from St. Louis
Travelicious heads to a place remembered by Lincoln, the Mormons and now Rick-a-Licious
I found myself with an extra day in St. Louis during a recent four week trip. Although I love this Midwestern city, I had visited too often in the last year and was itching to do something different. Roaming around Lambert Airport and being amazed by the devastation it faced with a recent tornado (hundreds of broken windows are still boarded up), I discovered an airline I had never heard of: Cape Air. Its $22 fare to Quincy, Illinois just up the Mississippi River was enticing enough to take a daytrip to the home of one of the Lincoln/Douglas debates (held in 1858) and the 10 most architecturally signifcant streets in America (Maine Street, according to National Geographic). Boarding a small Cessna which was booked to capacity with 7 just others (one being the pilot), and my laptop secured in the wing storage space, I was in Quincy in less than 40 minutes, all the while taking in fantastic views of the River, Hannibal, MO. and vast farmland below.
Retrieving my one piece of no-fee luggage (wow!) from what must be the world’s smallest baggage carousel, I decided to make this a “one city, one site” visit. I headed directly to the Villa Katherine, a Moorish Castle, sitting proudly one of the many bluffs overlooking the Mississippi. There I met Holly Cain, Executive Director of the Convention and Visitors Bureau for the “Gem City,” as Quincy is fondly known. What a treasure! The Bureau is based at the Villa and you won’t find a more friendly, familiar advocate for the Castle or for Quincy than Holly. There I learned all about the Islamic residence listed on the National Register of Historic places. Modeled after the Villa ben Ahben in Morocco, this Villa was build for Quincy native and world traveler George Metz in 1900 based on his sketches of villas in various parts of the Islamic world. Built and trimmed with local materials, it boasts a beautiful “harem room” and a courtyard surrounding a marble mosaic reflecting pool. A replica of the Mosque of Thais in Tunisia surmounts the main tower with waving stripes as decoration covered by a dome.
Quincy publishes a 101 guide that lists area restaurants, lodging, attractions, museums and activities. Right near the Villa, you can rent a bike and tour the city’s rich bounty of historic homes, dating back to the early 1900s. Or you can rent a kayak complete with guide and traverse the amazing Mighty Miss. All the while you will witness the hospitality of the locals, such as Holly, and see why the kindness extended by the people of Quincy holds a place in history.
During the winter of 1838-1839, five thousand members of the Church of Jesus Chris Latter-Day Saints were driven from their homes in Missouri and arrived in Quincy. Though vastly outnumbered by the new arrivals, the residents of Quincy provided them food and shelter. Joseph Smith then led his followers 40 miles up river to Nauvoo, Illinois. The kindness extended by the people of Quincy continues to be remembered by Mormons. In 2002, the Mormon Tabernacle Choir gave a benefit concert in Quincy, with the proceeds donated to the city as an expression of gratitude.
With a population of just 40,000, Quincy is extremely LGBT and Senior-friendly as well. The Illinois Veterans Home there is a destination in itself, with a museum inside, and surrounded by a wildlife park! The Cabaret and Phoenix both host regular drag shows. Brix Wine Bar, Martinis at 515 and One provide great music and libations.
Check out seequincy.com and flycapair.com for all you need to know. Live on the edge when you find yourself with unexpected time on your hands and experience a city you’ve never met before! For under a hundred bucks, I did, and was treated like a Moorish queen!
Travel deliciously,
Rick]]>
Rick's Travelicious: An introduction
This is an introductory clip with Rick Rose, who’ll be writing Rick’s Travelicious for the site. Rick manages to travel about as much as anyone I’ve known (and I’ve known him since the late 1980s). I believe his energy, humor, experience as a traveler and a travel writer (Discover Wisconsin just a prime example), will add a fun and welcome element to lgbtSr.com. So here we are, saying hello from my Manhattan apartment, looking forward to the first of many of Rick’s travel postcards. You can read Rick’s bio here.]]>