On the Map: Provincetown Paradise with a Side Trip to Wellfleet
On the Map is a feature at LGBTSr.com offering travelogues and recommendations. Narration provided by Wondervox.
By Mark McNease
As we come to the end of another annual trip to Provincetown, I’m reminded why we value our visits here. Frank has had a timeshare for 35 years or so, at a place called Eastwood at Provincetown. It’s like a sprawling motel complex on the far east side of town, and has been very lesbian-centric for years. Plenty of gay men, too, but a lot of women come here. This time I noticed several children with their opposite-sex parents, and I found myself hoping it’s not losing its edge. We’ll see.
Provincetown is the gayest town in America, or at least it vies for the title. It’s also truly historic, and was the place where the pilgrims landed first, despite all the hype about Plymouth Rock. They came here, saw all the rainbow flags and moved on. At least that’s my guess.
Among the highlights of any trip to P-town: food (food, and more food), drag queens on bicycles, Cape Cod Bay, LGBTQ people in every direction and flavor, street life, history, walking, bike riding, boat excursions, whale watching, dunes tours, and more food.
Places we ate: Pepe’s Wharf, Patio, Ross’ Grill, The Red Inn, Fanizzi’s, Mayflower, and of course Spiritus Pizza.
Place we got a massage and facial: Jonathan Williams Salon and Spa.
Shows we saw: Dina Martina (avant-drag, an annual must), and lesbian comic, author and actor Judy Gold.
Eastwood is about a 30 minute walk from town, so we always get in at least two hours a day of walking (heading in twice every day). Wherever you stay, you’ll love it here. The drive from our home in New Jersey is grueling, so we break it up each way, spending a night in Connecticut coming and going. It adds two days to our trip, but it’s the best way to do it. Provincetown is the kind of place you have to enjoy visiting to endure getting here.
When people think of Massachusetts, they often think of Boston or Cape Cod. However, there’s a true gem of a town nestled at the very tip of the Cape that not many people know about – Provincetown. Here are four reasons why Provincetown should be on your list of must-visit destinations.
Beautiful Beaches – Provincetown boasts some of the best beaches on the East Coast. Herring Cove Beach and Race Point Beach are two of the most popular beaches here. These beaches have soft sands, clear waters, and stunning views of the ocean. Whether you prefer to lounge on the shore or go for a swim, Provincetown’s beaches have something for everyone.
Artistic Culture – Provincetown has a rich artistic culture that has been thriving for over a century. This town is home to a vibrant arts scene, with art galleries, museums, and an active theater community. You’ll love exploring the galleries and attending one or several of the dozens of shows on offer every day and night.
Seafood – P-town has some of the freshest seafood around, thanks to its closeness to the ocean. From lobster rolls to clam chowder, fish and chips to crab cakes, there a must-try dish in every restaurant you go to, and we’ve been to most of them!
Nightlife – While you can enjoy the nightlight just sitting on a bench at Town Hall, Provincetown has a reputation for being a colorful town. At night, the streets are alive with people going to bars, restaurants, and shows. Street musicians, a face painter for kids, pedicabs, and a local bus that’s free on Fridays (normally just $2). Whatever you’re looking for, you’ll find here, and you won’t have to look far.
A Side Trip to Wellfleet
We had a day off, so to speak with nothing planned, so I took a look at nearby towns and suggested we drive to Wellfleet, which is just 25 minutes from where we stay. We loved it. It’s much smaller than Provincetown, but just as charming and much more understated. There are shops, galleries, and restaurants, without the crowds. I highly recommend a few hours here.
Wellfleet is often overshadowed by the popular Cape Cod towns like Provincetown and Chatham. However, this seaside village has its own unique character, and there’s no shortage of beautiful beaches, scenic trails, and cultural attractions. We started out walking the Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail, a one-mile loop by the beach that winds through dense vegetation, cedar trees and ferns. We stopped at the Marconi Beach, where you can read about the station that was once there, where Guglielmo Marconi sent the first wireless transmission, making the world safe for iPhones!
The town has a rich history of art and crafts, and you can learn more about it at the Wellfleet Historical Society Museum, which showcases local artifacts and photographs. The Wellfleet Harbor Actors Theater (WHAT) is another cultural hub that hosts year-round performances of plays, musicals, and comedy shows. And if you’re a fan of live music, you can catch one of the weekly concerts at Preservation Hall, a historic venue that has hosted jazz legends like Louis Armstrong and Duke Ellington.
Whether you’re looking for outdoor adventures, artistic inspiration, or just a quiet retreat, you’ll find plenty to like and explore in Wellfleet. And while you’re there, grab lunch at Mac’s Shack. We loved it!
See you next year.